I Can't Hold a Safety Stop, Am I Overweighted? #askmark #scuba @ScubaDiverMagazine
#askmark hi mark, when ascending and holding at the 3m mark I’m having to kick to stay there, does this mean I’m overweighted
#scuba #scubadiving #scubadiver
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#AskMark as a Recreational, no deco diver, is there any reason to have more than 6m of line on a DSMB reel?
For me it comes down to I’d rather have too much than not enough if there’s current or I need the spool for anything else.
If there’s current then the buoy will travel diagonally and can yank the spool out of your hand when it comes to the end of the line before it reaches the surface. So, it can be good to allow some extra slack just in case you need it.
You can use your reel for more than just sending up dSMBs. They’re handy for search patterns and if you find something underwater at depth you can mark it’s location so that you can return later.
Is there any reason not to have more???
For the TLDR option; I’ve found more instances when more line is better than less line…
There are many reasons to have more than 6m, and none of them to do with deco.
1. Current. Deploying from 6m in current requires you to have a lot more than 6m of line as the DSMB goes up at an angle rather than straight.
2. Deployment at depth. Although very much related to current. In heavy current, sometimes you need to deploy from depth when leaving a wreck. This is so that the surface/boat can keep tabs on you whilst you drift away from the wreck.
3. Drift. Again, current based, but using the DSMB (OK, so it becomes an SMB at this point, but the same reel…) so that the boat can keep tabs on where you’re drifting to whilst underwater.
4. Object marking. Mark already covered. But more detail to follow.
5. Searching. Mark already covered – but here’s bit more detail. In UK diving, some times the vis isn’t great, and not all wrecks are shot-line marked. There are times when the shot line is put in, and it misses the wreck. (Although GPS/Sonar is getting better, so less likely to miss the wreck…) The first pair down the line would then attach a reel/spool to the shot and go searching for the wreck, and once found, attach the working end of the line to the wreck. If it’s not far they would leave the line in place for the subsequent pairs to follow to the wreck from the shot. Alternatively, if it is quite a distance, send up another DSMB from the wreck to allow subsequent pairs to descend directly on the wreck.
6. Communication with the surface. Linked to point 5…
I’m sure there are more reasons I’ve forgotten? But these are the first few off the top of my head…
@Lee Leatherbarrow I guess if you accidentally dropped the spool it may be better to have it on a short line than have to try to wind the whole length back up around your hand or something else to pull up and retrieve the spool that is (hopefully) attached at the end of the line. Not a reason that outweighs your other reasons for having a longer line, mind you, but you did ask if there might be a reason not to have more, after all 😀
I find it easier to deploy the DSMB from ~8m than from <5m. Another reason to have a few more meters of line.
@Lenny Zimmermann true. That is certainly a reason.
That said, I know all of my spools are attached to the line, as I always check. And re dropping: One can usually dive down to “catch” the reel before it unfurls too much. Although if it isn’t already attached to the DSMB at point of dropping it would be a little difficult to catch… (I have actually trained this multiple times to get first hand experience of both scenario…)
I am planning to buy my first regulator.
I am sidemount certified, and I am looking for a regulator that I can upgrade to a sidemount setup.
I am considering the Apeks xtx50 or Scubapro mk25 g260 or diverite XT2 advanced open water.
What do you think?
Do you have another recommendation?
And what do you think of building your own harness and backplate from aliexpress and buying a well-known brand wing like hollis or xdeep?
All good choices. An important consideration is whether you can get your regulators serviced easily where you are.
All three that you’ve chosen were on my list when I was considering new regulators. Another popular choice is the Atomic M1 that might be worth looking at.
It depends… For fundamental parts like D-Rings you can find some great bargains on websites like those.
However, you’ll struggle to find some of the more unique features and clean finish that you would see on a named brands equipment.
I’ll always invest in gear from bigger dynamic brands because if every diver sends money to nameless brands abroad, the big brands who are developing new gear are going to suffer and we’ll only be left with generic gear.
If you’re just planning to build a very ‘standard’ backplate and wing set then you should be able to find all of the parts you need. For a more refined, complete system I’ll always invest in a more trusted brand.
Not about this topic but any reason you can’t route your spg on right side, I’m looking at spg with computer console and would like it in right hand, any advice welcome 👍
You can however, divers prefer to keep their breathing hoses separate from other hoses so that when you’re in the water and you need to find a 2nd stage you are less likely to grab the wrong hose.
Most regulator setups are organised so that all of your breathing hoses are on the right-hand side and everything else on the left to be as neat as possible.
Ok thanks for that👍
I’ve worked on my buoyancy over the weekend and have reduced 17 kg to 13 kg, while in my dry suite. I think I can get rid of at least another 2 kg. Like Mark says, it’s all about been comfortable and confident. Small sets make it easy.
One can be excessively overweighted and still neutrally buoyant at any level. Some divers get it wrong, some instructors teach wrong to empty the BC when starting the ascent, which is of course stupid. Sure you can be a little bit negative and swim up or be positively buoyant and not swim but in either case you empty the BC little by little on the way, not everything at once. I’m actually thinking it might be safer to be slightly overweighted so if you get out of breath for whatever reason you can still hold your stop(s) comfortably.
3:29 That’s when your empty cylinder is MOST buoyant, not least.
Oops, good spot
3:20 A near empty cylinder will be more buoyant than a full one, no?
Yeah, that´s what he meant for sure.
Aluminum 80 yes, about 5lb buoyant at 500psi most every other tank will be roughly neutral or a couple pounds heavy
Whoops, good spot there