Diving in North Sulawesi: Exploring Bunaken Marine Park with Murex Manado Resort (Part I)

Jayne Jenkins experiences diving in North Sulawesi on a three-resort Passport to Paradise trip, beginning in Manado.

(Part I)his is Part 2 of a three-part exploration of North Sulawesi’s world-class dive destinations by Jayne Jenkins.
Part 1: Murex Manado | Part 2: Bangka Island | Part 3: Lembeh Strait

Manado, the capital of North Sulawesi, is often regarded as a diver’s paradise thanks to its stunning underwater biodiversity, vibrant coral reefs, and rich marine life. Nestled between mountains and sea, Sulawesi offers some of the most-diverse and rewarding underwater experiences in the world, attracting divers from every corner of the globe. 

The Legacy of Diving and Conservation in North Sulawesi

In 1987, Dr Hanny Batuna was not only the first scuba diver in North Sulawesi, but the man with the vision, willingness and tenacity to stand up for the environment and securing protected status for these waters. Together with his wife, he founded Murex Resorts to further their mission and share the wonders of Sulawesi with the world. 

Dr Batuna was instrumental in establishing the first and only recompression chamber in Manado and in training local divers, laying the foundation for a thriving diving community. He played a key role in the creation of Bunaken Marine Park, officially designated in 1991. The park, made up of five islands including Bunaken itself, is now home to more than 70% of all known fish species in the Indo-Western Pacific. It spans over 8,000 hectares of coral reefs, extensive seagrass beds, and vast mangrove forests. 

Continuing her father’s legacy, Angelique Batuna has been a driving force in marine conservation. In her role as Project Manager for WWF-Indonesia, she was instrumental in marine protection efforts. 

Today, alongside her husband Danny Charlton, Angelique manages the three Murex Resorts. Together, they developed the ‘Passport to Paradise’ -an immersive journey across all three resorts, offering divers the best way to experience Sulawesi’s spectacular underwater landscapes.

Arrival at Murex Manado: The Gateway to Adventure

Upon arrival at Manado Airport, it’s just a short transfer to Murex Manado Resort, the perfect place to begin your adventure. Set amid tranquil gardens with stunning views of nearby volcanoes, the resort offers a peaceful and scenic base to relax and unwind. The new luxury bungalows are spacious and well-appointed, featuring all the modern amenities you’d expect. The newly built outdoor dining area and bar are ideal spots to enjoy a gin and tonic while watching the sunset after your day’s diving. Underwater photographers will appreciate the resort’s dedicated camera room, offering ample space for charging and setting up gear. The dive shop is well-organized, with attentive and knowledgeable staff who ensure your equipment is always taken care of.

Diving Bunaken Marine Park: A Haven for Turtles and Coral Walls

Diving from Murex Manado takes place in the renowned Bunaken Marine Park. With warm, crystal-clear waters (around 29°C), spectacular coral walls, and dramatic dropoffs, the park is a haven for marine life. While Bunaken is famous for its thriving population of green sea turtles, hawksbill turtles are also frequently spotted gliding through the waters. 

Each day, dive sites are selected and posted – usually a two-tank morning dive followed by an optional afternoon and night dive, either on the house reef or by boat. The dive boats are spacious and well-equipped, making each trip comfortable and easy – just gear up and dive in.

Turtles are a near-constant presence. On one dive at Lekuan Wall, arguably the park’s most famous site, we counted an astonishing 39 turtles! As we drifted along the dramatic wall, turtles appeared from every direction – some curious, others peacefully resting on sponge-covered ledges. There’s a strict no-touch policy, but the turtles often approach divers out of curiosity, making for incredible photo opportunities. You’ll also find schools of pyramid butterflyfish swirling along the wall, occasionally masking larger pelagic fish passing by. The reef is rich with macro life too, from nudibranchs, mantis shrimps, leafy scorpionfish and orangutan crabs to large sponges and soft corals plus my favourite, frogfish.

Macro Wonders and Underwater Photography Highlights

Other dive highlights and another favourite site was Pangalisang, known for its hard coral gardens, giant barrel sponges, and clouds of colourful anthias. Shallow bommies hide clownfish in anemones, coral crabs, and countless juvenile species – perfect for wide-angle and macro photography alike. The house reef at Murex Manado also offers excellent macro diving, especially at night. It’s easy to spend over an hour exploring its secrets: decorator crabs, pygmy squid, nudibranchs, moray eels, octopus, and more. 

A Family Legacy: Commitment to Sustainability and Marine Protection

With over 20 dive sites in the marine park, all equipped with moorings, Murex Resorts remains true to its mission of environmental protection. The dive guides are not only highly skilled in spotting marine life but are also passionate educators, sharing their knowledge after each dive. At the end of each day, you’ll receive a list of species spotted – great for dive logs and post-trip reference. What truly sets Murex Resorts apart is their unwavering commitment to conservation. As pioneers of diving in North Sulawesi, they consider themselves guardians of the sea. Their many sustainability initiatives aim to protect reefs, marine life, and local ecosystems. They believe that with care, education, and responsible tourism, healthy reefs can thrive for generations to come.

This philosophy is evident in everything they do. Upon arrival, guests are briefed on marine-responsible diving practices: no touching corals, no standing on reefs, avoiding contact with wildlife, collecting any marine debris, and always leaving the reef better than you found it. 

All guests diving in Bunaken Marine Park are required to purchase Marine Park Tags, supporting ongoing conservation and management of the protected area. 

Thanks to decades of dedication from the Batuna family and the Murex team, diving in North Sulawesi means being among healthy, vibrant, and full of life. A stay at Murex is more than just a dive trip – it’s an invitation to be part of a family legacy of exploration, protection, and awe for one of the planet’s richest marine environments. 

This was my third visit there and the accommodation and meals are fantastic. The team, both dive and resort, are well trained and could not have been more helpful and friendly. You truly do come away feeling part of a family.

Looking for the next stop? Read the next chapter of Jayne’s journey in Gateway to a diver’s Passport to Paradise pt II: Bangka Island , where she heads to a kaleidoscopic island paradise famed for its stunning volcanic pinnacles and dramatic, color-drenched soft corals.

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