Tom St George ventures into the coralrich Bligh Water with the dive team from Volivoli Dive Resort
Photographs by Tom St George
Fiji is surely the definition of an island paradise and lies in the South Pacific, with tropical waters, palm-lined beaches, and a truly welcoming Melanesian / Polynesian culture. Many of the tourists visiting this tiny Pacific nation are scuba divers, drawn here by warm waters, stunning corals, and an abundance of marine life.
The Bligh Water separates Fiji’s two largest islands -Viti Levu and Vanua Levu – and this deep expansive stretch of water is laced with vibrant coral reefs teeming with masses of colorful reef fish and a wide variety of other marine life.
Over the years Fiji has quietly earned a reputation as the ‘soft coral capital of the world’, and the vibrant underwater wonderland of the Bligh Water must surely be the jewel in that crown.
In addition to the famous soft corals, incredibly healthy reefs, and a wide array of wildlife the region also offers dramatic scenery with coral pinnacles and plummeting walls. A selection of wall dives, sloping reefs, atolls, and even wrecks are on offer ensuring that there is plenty of variety to keep things interesting.
Currents are the lifeblood coursing through the veins of these reef systems, supplying oceanic water and nutrients to feed the ecosystem and pump up the famous soft corals.
They also bring new generations of inhabitants, as Fiji is the first major reef system encountered by the tiny larval fish and invertebrate spawn drifting in from the Pacific. The strong oceanic currents and an upwelling of nutrient-rich water support the great diversity of marine life found here.
These currents run through the deep Vatu-i-Ra Passage, which is home to more than 300 coral species and over 1,000 species of fish.
The coral reefs in the Vatu-i-Ra Passage vibrate with life and energy when the currents start to build. At sites like E-6, Black Magic Mountain, and Mount Mutiny the reefs come alive, and soft corals unfurl and dance.
Blizzards of tiny neon-colored fish flit between the coral gardens, schooling fish hang near the drop-offs, and sharks can patrol the reef.
Did you know?
One of Fiji’s best-known dive sites is named after the copious amounts of E-6 slide film shot here when it was first discovered. This pinnacle rises from the depths of half a mile up to just 3ft from the surface. An incredible dive that is resplendent with hard and soft corals and teeming with reef fish. Schools of pelagic fish can be found here when there is current running. With such an abundance of marine life you could happily spend several dives here exploring the overhangs and canyons. Even the safety stop is a special treat with a hard coral garden on the peak of the seamount.
The region is also home to the green and loggerhead turtles, as well as the largest population of nesting hawksbills in Fiji. It is one of the few remaining sanctuaries in the world for the endangered humphead wrasse.
And when you take a closer look at the coral gardens, you can also find plenty of macro life, including nudibranchs, pygmy seahorses, ghost pipefish, frogfish, and more.
The great visibility and nutrient-rich seas of the Bligh Water make for world-class reef diving. With so much on offer, alongside the stunning soft corals in a kaleidoscope of colors, it is not hard to understand why the diving found in the Bligh Water is so celebrated.
You could happily spend days exploring any of the 80 or more dive sites dotted throughout this maze of reefs and submerged pinnacles, each teeming with fish and vibrant corals. And when you add a stay at the truly stunning Volivoli Beach Resort, then you get a very special destination with a huge amount of appeal.
Did you know?
This stunning seascape was named after Lieutenant William Bligh, who passed through these waters in a small longboat after being thrown overboard in the famous ‘Mutiny on the Bounty’. Despite being pursued by unfriendly locals and battered by storms, Bligh put Fiji on the map when he plotted the islands and reefs.
Discover Volivoli Beach Resort
Volivoli Beach Resort is widely regarded as one of the best places from which to explore the Bligh Water. This awardwinning, four-star boutique resort is family-owned and situated on a headland at the northern tip of Viti Levu.
The expansive grounds with lush vegetation occupy a beautiful hillside that leads down to a palm-fringed white sand beach.
The 33 rooms and villas have spectacular ocean views, and four of the villas come with a private pool. The resort offers a first-class restaurant, a pool with a swim-up bar, and a day spa, along with a beach bar and restaurant located next to the on-site dive centre.
Fiji is world-famous for its hospitality, and the staff at Volivoli are no exception. The resort staff are extremely friendly and attentive with every greeting of ‘Bula’ accompanied by a warm welcoming smile.
Getting to Volivoli Beach Resort is also quite easy; a flight into Nadi International Airport and a two-and-a-half-hour scenic drive to the resort. Transfers can be arranged on request. If you are not too jetlagged you can arrive in the morning and dive the same afternoon!
Did you know?
Volivoli Beach Resort started in the 1990s as a backpacker lodge to accommodate off the-beaten-path adventurers in search of the best diving in Fiji. It has evolved into an award-winning, fourstar boutique resort still owned and operated by the original owners.
Ra Divers Fiji
The on-site dive centre is Ra Divers Fiji with over 25 years of experience diving the Bligh Water and the Vatu-i-ra Passage. They offer ‘valet diving’ at its absolute best, and once you arrive you can relax and let them take care of everything.
The dive staff are obviously passionate about diving as well as being fun, friendly, and professional. Photographers will appreciate the excellent camera room, complete with individual charging stations and air guns. An air-conditioned conference room/classroom is available for those running courses or workshops.
Ra Divers have gear, boats, and staff capable of hosting up to 36 divers daily, from beginners still in training to certified divers ready to explore the delights of the Vatu-i-Ra Passage.
There are five boats all purpose-built for diving with the larger boats taking a maximum of 16 divers each. Fresh water, towels, and light refreshments are provided on board.
Each day on the boat will be either a two or a three-tank trip. Two-tank days will have you back for lunch, and for three-tanks you will have a packed lunch and get back to the resort around 4pm.
The schedule is set the day before and also depends on your dive package. For our trip we alternated each day between a twotank and a three-tank trip.
Before each dive there is a thorough briefing with a map of the site drawn on a whiteboard, Water entry is via giant stride off the stern with a ladder to get back onboard.
The dive sites
With over 80 dive sites available, the diving possibilities are varied with a seemingly endless supply of wall dives, pinnacles, atolls, swim-throughs, and drift dives. The dive sites range from 16ft to depths of 100ft (and far beyond).
Atolls start at a depth of mere feet and can drop to 3250ft or more. The surface conditions in the Bligh Water dive sites can be quite changeable, so the choice of dive sites is always weather-dependent.
The house reefs are closest to home and situated directly in front of the dive centre. These offer the opportunity for some muck diving with seahorses, nudibranchs, octopi, scorpionfish, and sea pens all to be found here. With a diving package, you get unlimited shore diving on the house reef, which makes for a nice bonus.
Just a short boat ride of 10 to 30 minutes brings a variety of local reefs offering some great dives, with the signature hard and soft corals, a wide variety of fish including reef sharks, and even the chance to see pelagics such as eagle rays.
These range from shallow reefs or gentle sloping walls perfect for beginners to reefs offering a maze of tunnels, swim-throughs, and passageways adorned with soft and hard corals.
And of course, there are plenty of options for drift dives along majestic walls. There are even a couple of wrecks on offer – the Papuan Explorer and MV Ovalua II.
Fortunately, many of these reefs are quite sheltered and make a great option when weather conditions are not ideal.
Further afield, about a 45-minute boat ride from the resort, is the Vatu-i-Ra Conservation Park. This marine reserve encompasses the Vatu-i-Ra Island, the surrounding barrier reefs, and a deep channel that runs through them; the Vatu-i-Ra Passage.
The most famous dive sites in the region are to be found here. These sites are celebrated for their signature soft corals, abundant and diverse marine life, and healthy populations of hard corals.
They offer a mixture of pinnacles, walls, swim-throughs, and coral bommies, all of which are teeming with life and riotous colours. Sites like E6, Black Magic Mountain, Mount Mutiny, Mellow Yellow, and Instant Replay will be etched in your memory forever.
Other activities
For the non-diver, there are plenty of land-based activities, including Fiji’s largest waterfall and a variety of local tours. There is the opportunity to take in some grisly local history at Ratu Udre Udre, the tomb of the world’s most-prolific cannibal.
You can also snorkel the pristine reefs, use the complimentary stand-up paddle boards and kayaks, or simply relax by the pool or in a hammock on the white sandy beach after enjoying a relaxing visit to the spa.
Conclusion
My stay at Volivoli Beach Resort was truly exceptional. The attention to detail is outstanding – the service, accommodation, and food are all top-notch. The operation at Ra Divers is equally impressive and offers an excellent valetdiving experience and world-class reef dives.
The diving is fantastic with an extremely varied and interesting underwater topography filled with an abundance of marine life. While the soft corals are undoubtedly the most celebrated star of the show, I found the hard corals to be just as impressive; the sheer abundance of these pristine coral reefs is simply stunning.
The sight of terraces of coral upon coral rising from the depths is simply breathtaking. The coral gardens at the tops of the bommies and pinnacles are also majestic with a bewildering array of hard corals dappled with shimmering sunbeams.
Diving in such a remote location provides pristine reefs but also the benefit of not having to share the dive sites with other dive boats; a real luxury that allows you to fully enjoy what are surely some of the healthiest coral reefs on the planet.
There are strong currents that run through the deep Vatu-i-Ra Passage which nourish the magnificent reefs and make the soft corals bloom.
However, the dive crews do an exceptional job of choosing the best dive site for the conditions so that most dives are sheltered from the currents on the lee side of a pinnacle or atoll, or at most a fairly tame drift dive along a wall.
With such a variety of dive sites offering incredibly healthy and colorful reefs, I am certainly looking forward to returning to Volivoli Beach Resort and diving Bligh Water again as soon.
FAQ
Why is Fiji called the soft coral capital of the world?
The nutrient-rich currents of the Bligh Water nourish Fiji’s reefs, making its soft corals some of the most colourful and abundant in the world.
What is the Bligh Water?
The Bligh Water is the deep channel between Fiji’s two largest islands, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, home to 80+ coral-rich dive sites.
Where is the best place to stay for diving Bligh Water?
Volivoli Beach Resort, with its on-site dive centre Ra Divers Fiji, is the top choice for accessing Fiji’s Bligh Water and Vatu-i-Ra Passage.
What marine life can divers see in Bligh Water?
Expect sharks, turtles, reef fish, barracuda, manta rays, pygmy seahorses, nudibranchs, and the endangered humphead wrasse.
This article was originally published in Scuba Diver NA #19
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